After COVID, life changed a lot - things got more expensive, travelling got harder. It had been almost 8 years since visiting my family and friends in Brazil, And, because of work, traveling was always limited to visiting family, without climbing and exploring in the ways we had hoped and wanted. That's when my wife, Marion, and I decided to take a break - a long one. We started the mission of getting rid of things we had accumulated over the years packed the remaining items into four pieces of luggage and two backpacks and purchased a one-way ticket to Brazil - to visit family AND to CLIMB!
We shared highlights of that Brazil climbing trip in a previous edition of Common Climber, but the climbing adventure and long-break did not end in Brazil. We also went to Europe.
Hieres-Sur-Amby
Another one-way ticket took us to Europe and we began in Paris! From Paris we went to Lyon, where Marion’s family lives. Lyon is located about 4.5 hours south. Lyon is a big city, but surprisingly, it doesn’t have much climbing. Apart from the great local gyms, you have to travel a bit to get to the good crags. Hieres-Sur-Amby, just under an hour east of Lyon, was our favourite crag. It has about 85 sport climbs and a short approach with really cool timber decks and benches where you can rest. The limestone rock quality was surprisingly good, although many of the climbs were short (ranging from 10 to 30 meters - 32-100 feet). Interestingly the crag is close to a nuclear power plant and the views are actually amazing.
View of the nuclear power plant from the top of Hieres-Sur-Amby, a crag near Lyon, France (Photo Credit: Jorge Packer)
Pen Hir
After a week in Lyon, we headed northwest to Brittany. Here you will find one of France's most beautiful climbing spots – Pen Hir. This impressive crag stands as one of the tallest cliffs on the Brittany coast, offering a wide range of climbs by the Atlantic Ocean and providing stunning views. In fact, Pen Hir is the first recommendation in France'sbest climbing locationsguidebook.
Our first day was mostly exploratory, as we didn’t really know where to go. We began by walking towards a giant cross - a tourist attraction for great pictures - and we start noticing climbers all every time we approached the edge of the cliff.
As we headed down to our first climbing area, we noticed a climber on the top a square rock, 30-meters above the ocean. The exposure looked amazing and we knew right away what we were doing!La Vigie(5c) - a great start! This climb took us up an amazing arete. It was easy and enjoyable climbing, with the sounds of waves below and the ocean views all around. Once at the top, suddenly you feel like a celebrity because of the number of tourists taking pictures of you! I heard one person saying “These people are crazy!”
Sunset in Camaret Sur Mer, Bretagne in the North West of France. This photo was taken at about 10 p.m. You can climb late into the evening here in the summer! (Photo Credit: Jorge Packer)
In our conversations with other climbers, they suggested checking out the unique wall,La Dalle de Verre. To reach these climbs you have rappel, being careful keep the ends of the ropes out of the ocean. The climbs here require a hanging belay, as there is no ground, only water below. If the tide is high, you can’t climb at this wall. We climbed a slabby route calledLe Tresor Englouti(5c). What a great way to finish the day! During the summer, the sun in the region sets around 10:30 p.m. Our last climb wrapped up at around 9 p.m. By the time we got to the city to have dinner, everything was closed! We managed to find one restaurant only that was willing to take us, but with the condition of only one dish as an option, a Ribeye Steak! It wasn’t the best I’ve ever had, but we had to eat… On our second day here, we saw two climbers mantling finish the top of a route 50 meters above the ocean. The view was the most amazing backdrop I’ve ever seen on any climb! I rushed over to ask them what they were climbing. They told me it was
And by “finishing the day” I mean, night…
Climbers topping out the multi-pitch climb "Diabolo" [5c+ (FR)/ 18 (AUS) / 5.10a (YDS)] which inspired us to climb it! (Photo Credit: Jorge Packer)
We ran back to our car to pick up our gear. After doing a couple of abseils to reach the bottom of the cliff, we found yet another new world - things you only see if you’re a climber! We got toDiabolo, and, with excitement, I started leading this 3-pitch, 50-m(* ft)climb. The climbing was incredible with a view that I can’t describe in words.
Other classics and very popular climbs we did in Pen Hir wereMegalithe(6b/ *),Aphrodite(6a/ *), and Le Nez de L’Indian (6b/*). All of these climbs were in the same vicinity as Diabolo in an areas calledGrande Falaise.
Around Brittany we also visited some other smaller crags, likeRocher de la Pie, which offers some chill climbing and is good for beginners.Erquy, also known asLes Lacs Bleus(The Blue Lakes) is an old quarry that was transformed into a climbing area. It also has ocean views and some good quality climbs, mostly on slabby terrain. This area is good for beginners with well protected routes and easy grades.
Cassis
We packed up and travelled south to Cassis, the land of the warm weather and the Calanques by the Mediterranean Sea.
Arriving in Cassis, we didn’t have a place to stay, because the camping wouldn’t accept reservations. So, we took a risk and we managed to get a spot. Victory! Now, it was time to look for a tent - yeah, we didn’t have a tent. A quick search on Facebook market got us set up. A second victory!
Then it was time to set up the tent, but the heat was absurd and so was the complexity of the tent. It was so hot that we got really annoyed, almost fighting with each other while trying to understand how to put the tent together. To top it off, the mosquitoes were devouring our legs, arms and every ounce of skin they could find. Marion, whose native language is French, talked to our camping neighbours. They lent us some thicker nails, and a big hammer! That was probably what saved our whole trip! That was our last victory for the day! |
Success! The tent is finally set up and Marion prepares a meal. (Photo Credit: Jorge Packer) |
A view of Cap Canaille from the Plage de l’Arene beach in Cassis, Frace. (Photo Credit: Jorge Packer)
We first decided to visitCap Canaille, a massive cliff reaching almost 400 meters above sea level. This cliff is also the first thing you see as you arrive in Cassis, it’s huge! The approach to Cap Canaille from Cassis is beautiful, a 15-minute drive on winding roads with great views!
As we approached the cliff, we noticed a party of three climbing, the ocean and the city were incredible backdrops. We knew what was next on our list.
We ended the day exploring the area and taking loads of pictures during the amazing sunset.
Cap Canaillewas almost entirely in the shade during the whole morning. On the first day in this area we climbedLe Bitard a Rudistea 7 pitch climb (130 meters/*feet; 6a+/*)that required four rappels with a single rope to reach the start.
The first couple of pitches felt a bit chossy, but they climbed alright. The fun started after the third pitch, with some really cool corner climbing, and a challenging vertical wall, with some technical moves that got us pumped. The last 3 pitches we ended up climbing in the sun due to the rappelling challenges with descending with only one rope. That was a big mistake not to be repeated on the following days. The wind also picked up unexpectedly, which helped cool things down a little, but also added some challenge. In the last few meters of the climb, we felt like we were in avitrinewith many tourists watching us.
After that climb we decided to by the local guidebook and a second rope to allow two rappels instead of four down this massive cliff.
We climbed another 3 classics:
Ciao Bella(100 meters; 6b+),which we abseiled from the wrong anchor, and arrived somewhere completely wrong. Luckily we were able to climb a traverse, that led us back to the correct set of anchors, which we then used to rappel again, and do the climb.
2 -Effet Papillon(160 meters; 7b) 7b is actually in my projecting grade I was feeling confident and thought I could at least have a chance of doing it on 2 or 3 attempts. All was going really well. There were some tricky 6B+ moves early that made me work hard, but they were doable. I was cruising until the 5th pitch. Right off the belay ledge the 7b moves hit hard! I managed the first move to a bad sloper, to n undercling crimp. The I'm like, "What the hell am I supposed to do here?!" no idea... I tried a few moves and nothing worked. I knew our time was limited as the shade was disappearing. I had to give up and pull on the quick draws.Pitches 6 (6a), 7 (6c) and 8 (6a+) went well. The interesting thing is the rock changes type from a composite limestone to sandstone to conglomerate with big, round imbedded rocks - so much fun to climb on! Later I looked on the internet to see if there was any beta for the moves I couldn't free - unfortunately I found nothing to satisfy my curiosity.
ABOVE: Click to enlarge the photos - Jorge Packer andMarion Lemetayer on Vielles Canaille(6b+ ; 120m; 7 pitches), their favorite climb in this area. (Photo Credits:Marion Lemetayer)
The last and best climb for me wasVielles Canaille(6b+ ; 120m; 7 pitches). The approach is same as forCiao Bella. At the bottom, walk left towardsLa Ciotatuntil you see the letter VC marked on the rock. Pitch 1 (6a) has a tricky traverse going left, very interesting moves, great start. The second pitch (6a) has some crazy 3-D chimney moves, very fun. The 3rd pitch was just a walk to get to the pitch 4. That’s where the real fun begins. Pitch 4 is an amazing vertical 6b+(*) wall with some technical moves, and amazing rock quality. It actually felt like climbing in the Blue Mountains for a moment. The 5th(6b+)and 6th(6b) pitches have some really steep overhanging starts that look very difficult, but there were enjoyable and easier than anticipated.
The 7th and last pitch (6b+) was the climax of the whole trip. Begin on an arete that leads you to some juggy overhanging climbing. At the end of this overhanging section, you reach(video attached) the last 10 meters of amazing vertical climbing. You are completely hanging above 400 meters above sea level. Do a high left heel hook, rock over to reach a side pull, do a knee scum, and reach a jug to clip - a perfect ending to our climbing trip in Cassis!
ABOVE: Click to enlarge the photos and see captions.
In the Cassis area we continued to explore. There wasMallombrewhich had shade in the afternoons and theCalanqueofPort Miou, which also had afternoon sun and was one of the few calanques (or coves) that did not require a long approach. The calanques were so unique, with rock walls reaching straight up from the crystal blue waters of the Mediterranean sea and inviting deep water soloing. It was perfect for a hot day.
The guide book for climbing in Cassis has a brief section about deep water soloing. In fact, it’s so brief that we had a bit of trouble finding the location. Eventually we met two guys going to the same spot, so we just followed them. To get to the climbing wall, you can either do a 100-meter traverse along the border of the water, or jump in the sea, and swim 50 meters to reach the wall. The rock type is the same conglomerate we found on the upper pitches ofEffet Papillon.
It's been a long time since I've jumped into the water from heights above 2 meters (7 feet) and this was my first time to deep water solo. It was actually a bit scary. I had to work my way up, starting low and jumping from greater heights every time. I worked myself up to it, until I was able to jump from the top of my first climb, 10 meters (~32 feet) above the water. It was a refreshing moment for a first deep water experience.
We spent two weeks exploring Cassis and the surrounding climbing, but it was time to get back to Brittany to continue my long visa process.
Briancon
Our trip continued to Briançon, another city that breathes climbing!
We got lucky and managed to watch the final of the world lead climbing competition - the one that got famous for having seven Japanese male athletes in the finals, a first in the history of the competition.
ABOVE: Click to enlarge the photos and see captions.
The atmosphere at the climbing comp was great. Watching some of the strongest climbers in the world in front of you was inspiring and a dream come true. This is how we decided that our next destination would be Bern in Switzerland, where the next big climbing comp would take place. This competition is the one that would determine the Olympians going to Paris in 2024.
Briançon is beautiful, surrounded by mountains with climbing areas everywhere.
Having gotten our tent pitching down now, we camped for another 2 weeks. The weather was excellent and we visitedRocher de L’ombre,Casse de Prelles,Fessourir,Le Rif d’Oriol, and the most famous,Ailefroid, just to name a few.
I enjoy taking photos and videos of people climbing, which is a really good way to learn about new places to visit, get tips, and even make friends for life!
ABOVE: Click to enlarge the photos and see captions.
The Future
This trip is not even close to its end - there’s still so much more to see! I know that eventually I will have to go back to an office, work long hours, experience stress, and have problems to solve. But, if I ever have the opportunity to keep living this life, I will do everything I can to make it happen. The world is really big, and not having a fixed place, full of things you don’t need, is the real freedom. We meet new people every day, with great stories to tell, lessons to learn, and the experience only gets richer.
As of this writing, we are in Switzerland for the World Cup in Bern and exploring the climbs in the area. Then it is off to Austria to visit some friends, then back to France to keep my visa in check, then Spain, Portugal, and who knows...
If you want to follow along, subscribe to my YouTube channel, where I will be posting periodic videos along the way!
ABOVE: Click to enlarge the photos and see captions.
